The stinky beans aren’t your only clue that Siam Central isn’t like most other Thai restaurants in Orange County. Another is the kua kring, a radioactive dry curry from Southern Thailand.

Sator Siam, a stir-fry of sator beans, squid, shrimp, ground pork and chicken, red chilis, pickled garlic and shrimp paste at Siam Central in Mission Viejo (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County ...